Is the car from an area that makes it rust heavily, if so what damage has rust caused to the car, do we need to replace most of the metal parts of the car, such as the floorboards, trunk floors, rocker panels, and inner wheel wells, well you get the idea.

Does it have excessive body damage, electrical damage, interior damage, or mechanical damage, all of these things weigh in to the cost of getting your car restored, most reputable shops will have a shop labor rate that is high, if you locate a $25.00 per hour shop beware of what might happen to your car.

You might think that this sounds unfair, but your paying for their knowledge, not for their time, most reputable shops have owners that have spent a lot of time learning how to restore cars, and they should get paid for their knowledge of your car.

This is not collision repair, it’s nothing like it, we have no book to go off of to estimate the cost to restore your car, we have our knowledge of of your car, and the restoration of it, people often ask me if they can restore a car for less then it would cost to buy a fully restored one, the answer is no.

It will always cast more to restore a car then the blue book value of the car, so restoring them to resell, and make money off of is not the answer, you need to restore the car because it holds nostalgia for your, it brings back memories of the good old days.

There are just way to many factors to look at, factors that require us to begin work on the car to know what’s going on with it, a car can have a lot of hidden surprises, things that you’ll never see from just an outer inspection of the car, we need to get deeper then that to know about that car.

I know that to you this sounds like an excuse to get started on your car, but there really is no way for a restoration shop to know what’s in store in the restoration of any car, it is 100% impossible to estimate the cost of restoring your car.

An average restoration can, and will take a lot of time to complete, even if the car is in excellent condition, it will take at least 1,000 hours to complete the restoration of your car, so let’s take my shop for example, the shop labor rate is $75.00 PHR, this means at least $75,000 in just labor.

It does not include parts, or supplies, it does not include any custom work that you want done, nor does it include any high performance work that you want done, this just gives you an idea of why a shop would say that they don’t estimate restoration work on any car.

If you want the car restored faster, all the shop can do is to put another tech on your job, and most shops won’t do that for free, they’ll charge shop labor rate for each employee that works on your car, so you should also keep this in mind when you want to push the speed.

This is not the first article that I have written on this, and I’m sure it won’t be the last, I seem to keep getting the same questions, a professional restoration shop is not in business to rip you off, they are only charging what it costs them to do the work.

Car Restoration
Muscle Car Restoration

I’ve been in the automotive industry for over 25 years now, and over that time it has given so much to me, that I figure it’s time for me to return that favor, by helping people restore their cars.

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First of all you might want to consider a car that you have always wanted, most people have some preference about what they like in a muscle car, but if this is your first restoration, you may want to consider a few things, this isn’t meant to sway you one way, or the other, it’s just good to know.

If your working with a budget that may help you to make your decision, there are a few things to consider if your going to run on a budget, first of all the most expensive cars to restore are Mopars, the parts are hard to find a lot of the time, and people know what they want for them.

I restored 1970 Dodge charger R/T for a client some time ago, we needed upper and lower control arms for the front suspension, it turns out that at the time nobody was selling them in the after market, so we went looking for some used ones, and we found them at a price of $800.00 a piece, that is $3,200.

They just didn’t build a lot of the Mopar muscle cars, and they got in to the market late, so they are very rare and hard to find, and this means more money to restore, but that about enough of that, I’m going to talk about some other key points to think about as you look for your muscle car.

I’m going to look at some issues that may be good for a first time car restoration experience, these are things that may answer some questions about which cars are harder to restore for a first car restoration, these things will be to do with the body restoration.

First of all if you want to start out with the cat that is the easiest to restore I would say that you should be looking at a first or second generation camaro, let me explain why I say this, first of all when you restore a car, that first thing you do after you get it, is to build a list of the parts that you need.

The first thing with the camaro is you can get almost every part you need from the after market, most of them are readily available to you, and because of this you can get parts for great prices, so it may fit your budget a bit better.

Just in case a camaro isn’t your idea of the perfect car to restore, I’m going to cover some body problems that Ford, Chevrolet, and Mopar all had, and this should help you to decide on you idea of the perfect car to restore.

Up first is the camaro, this will apply to first, or second generation camaros, you should always inspect the body of any classic car before you buy it, especially if it’s your first restoration job, what I will do here is explain the problem areas on each car.

First of all I’d look for bad body work, because this is one reason why a car will rust, make sure that you have a note book with your, so you can document what you find on each car, and use your note to compare that cars to find the best one for you to start with.

Camaro Problem Areas: This is a general Chevrolet problem area, as with most classic Chevrolet’s the camaro like to rust in the rocker panels, and these are a major structural part o the body, if you see any rust you should replace them.

The rocker panels can be found just below the doors on any car, take your time as you inspect them, make sure that you don’t miss anything, next we’ll move to the front end of the car, and take a look at the sub frame, and engine compartment area of the car.

Sub Frame & Engine Compartment: The sub frame of most camaros really isn’t that prone to rust, but I would still inspect it to make sure, the area that I would concentrate is the radiator support, and the firewall, you should also look at the wheel wells, although I have never found them to be a problem area.

Floor Boards: This can be a problem for any classic car, but it seems to affect the camaro less then the mustang, and most Mopars, although I would still put the car up on a hoist and look at the floor boards, these are areas that can make your first time restoration a pain in the butt.

Rear Wheel Wells: This is another one of those areas that you should look at on all classic cars, the rear wheels drive the car, and therefore tend to throw more rocks in to the wheel wells, this chips off the undercoating and causes them to rust, so you should always look at these.

If you look in wheel well and can’t see any problems, be sure to open the trunk and look at them from there also, the rust can’t hide from you in there, will will see it if it’s there, take you flash light and make sure that you look at this really thoroughly, these can be another problem for a first time restoration project.

That covers the major stuff on the camaro, for both the first generation, and the second generation of them, now for the reason other then parts availability that I say that the camaro is easier for the first time restoration project.

Plain an simple the camaro has a removable sub frame, technically the other do to, but you have to drill out the spot welds that hold them in the car to remove them, the camaro sub frame is held in by four bolts, and is really quite easy to remove.

Up next the Ford mustang, this is probably one of the most popular muscle cars ever built, and it has some areas that need to be looked at before you buy one , it’s no better or worse then any other choice, you just need to think of your skill level, but this applies to all of them.

Mustang Problem Areas:

Sub Frame & Engine Compartment: Mustangs are notorious for rusting in the radiator support, and if you can’t just patch the rust and leave the original part in the car, you’ll be spending time drilling spot welds to remove the radiator support, this in my opinion makes it harder then a camaro to restore.

You also want to pay close attention to the side skirts in the engine compartment, this is where the fenders bolt to the car, the mustang loved to rust there, and there again these are not removable without drilling spot welds out, this is why I say to take you skill level in to consideration.

Floor Boards: Moving on back, the floor boards are a problem area in most classic cars, you should always look at them, I do find the mustang to have a worse problem then the camaro when it comes to floor board rust.

Rocker Panels: Over the years I have noticed that these aren’t really a huge problem on the mustang, but you should still look at them, and just like the camaro, if you find any rust at all, you should replace them without question.

Rear Wheel Wells: As with most cars these are a problem, you should always look at them, if you can’t see them very well just looking in from the out side, open the trunk and look there, the rust can’t hide from your eyeballs there.

Trunk Floors: This is another area that seems to be pretty solid on the mustang, I don’t see them rust here a lot, but it does happen and you should inspect it, this takes care of the problem areas on the mustang, and it should help you decide what car to buy.

Dodge Charger Problem Areas: As for as rust in the body the mopars seem to have a worse problem then any other make of classic car, this isn’t by any means bashing on mopar, I love them, these are just observations from the cars that I have restored.

Mopar Problem Areas:

Sub Frame & Engine Compartment: In the charger the battery sits on the passenger side of the engine compartment, and these cars always rust where the battery tray is, they also rust on top of the fender skirts where the fenders bolt to the car, and moderate in the front wheel wells.

The radiator support seems to be pretty solid, most of them have a small patch-able rust hole or two in the radiator support, and after you fix them you usually don’t find any more problems in this area, mopar seems to have done a good job of protecting the radiator support. Floor Boards:

These are a huge problem on the B body cars, on the charger that we restored, it came in with no floor boards left in it, this seems to be a pretty normal thing, so you must look at the floor boards on any mopar muscle car.

Rocker Panels: I didn’t find these to be a big problem at all on most mopars the rocker panels seem to be quite solid, but as I keep saying, it doesn’t mean that shouldn’t look at them, and like the other two cars above, if you find any rust, replace them. Rear Wheel Wells:

These are an area that should never be left out in your inspection of a mopar muscle car, I have found these to be a big problem over the years of restoring cars, and I think that you will to, so please look at them closely.

Trunk Floors: These are in my opinion the worst part of a mopar muscle car, and should always be replaced, you should inspect them to see if they have been replaced already, and if no you should plan on doing it when you restore the car.

Tail Lights: These cars also seem to have a problem with rust in the tail light area, usually in the curved area below the tail lights, but you should inspect very carefully around the tail light area, and plan on some repair work there also.

Well that’s about it, I truly hope that helps you make an educated decision when you go shopping for your first muscle car restoration project, I really enjoy writing these articles, and I hope that they help you in some small way to make your classic car dreams come true.

Muscle Cars

I’ve been in the automotive industry for about 25 years, and over that time it has given so much to me, I figure that it’s about time for me to give some back, and that is what this is all about.

Car Restoration

The AACA dedicates itself to celebrating and preserving the pioneering days of automobile history. Although it focuses primarily on antique cars from the golden era of motoring, the club does define its scope in a much broader sense. It technically represents all vehicles that are self-propelled and meant for passenger use. This means it also welcomes club members with an interest in race vehicles, cars, trucks, motorcycles, powered bicycles and even fire trucks. In addition, it sets no real boundaries on the type of propulsion used in an antique vehicle. It welcomes vehicles powered not only by gasoline, but also steam, electric and diesel.

Headquartered in Hershey, Pennsylvania, the Antique Automobile Club of America was formed when a group of men came together to share their passion for vintage vehicles. The first real meeting was held in 1935 in Philadelphia. The club grew modestly at first, boasting 1,400 members by 1949. It took off in leaps bounds, however, over the next few decades. By 1985, it had more than 50,000 members worldwide. Membership today runs in the tens of thousands and includes people from all over the globe with a shared passion for antique automobiles.

Members of the AACA do not have to actually own vehicles to join. The club even welcomes junior members, who are youngsters up to age 12. Older children are also invited to join, as are adults regardless of their status as antique vehicle owners.

While one of the primary focuses of the AACA is to keep history alive through its library and museum, the club also offers members a number of related benefits. Members can take part in such things as:

• Meets – These are held in a variety of categories throughout the year and are often hosted by regional or localized chapters. Requirements for entry can vary based on the focus of the specific meets.
• Tours – These are meant to enable owners to show off their classic cars along with other owners. The club plays host to a variety of tours, many of which are restricted to vehicles produced during very specific time periods. Some tours, however, are open to all non-racing vehicles that are at least 25 years of age and older.
• Forums – The AACA maintains a forum for its members that help create a sense of community among antique vehicle owners and enthusiasts.
• Meetings – While local and regional clubs do host their own meetings, the biggest gathering each year is the annual meeting in Philadelphia. This event features conferences and workshops designed to educate members about the history of automobiles, proper restoration practices and more.

Classic and vintage car lovers looking for a welcoming home to share their passion often discover the Antique Automobile Club of America is right up their alley. To find out more about this international organization, visit www.aaca.org.

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Classic car rental companies and web sites dedicated to matching owners of classics with those interested in leasing them for a few days are thriving. From America to Europe and beyond, these businesses are providing people with a chance to make their dreams come true at least for a little while.

Private owners of classic cars are getting involved in this movement for a few very good reasons. First off, rentals help offset their own costs. Secondly, private owners might not always have the time to drive their own fleet of classic cars. Renting them out ensures they are run at least once in a while, which is good for keeping vehicles in tiptop condition.

Should you want to get behind the wheel of a classic Corvette or tool around in a genuine Model T Ford, you can do so if you find the right rental company. Here are a few things to expect from the rental car experience when that rental happens to be a classic:

A need to research companies well in advance – Classic car rental companies and exchanges that work with private owners are becoming quite popular, but that does not necessarily mean they are available in every city, state or country. If you want to rent a classic for your next vacation, research the options where you are going before you go. It is also a good idea to check into the reputation of the company and the quality of cars delivered.

A need for reservations – While it is certainly feasible to stroll into an airport and rent a standard car without a reservation, vying for a classic can take a little more planning. This is especially so with exchanges that might need to contact private owners to arrange for a vehicle rental. Do find a company well in advance and put dibs in on a few makes and models of interest.

A higher rental fee – The pricing on rental classics can range rather widely based on the exact car in question. You can, however, count on paying a bit more to drive a piece of history than you might have to shell out for a new rental. The price is well worth living the dream though.

A requirement to have insurance – This will vary from country to country, but you can count on having to already have or secure some form of insurance to cover your time in the car.

Just because you have not been able to buy a classic of your own just yet does not mean you cannot enjoy the feel of sitting behind the wheel. Try renting a classic the next time your vacation rolls around. You could be in for the ride of your life.

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Sporty, fast, compact and adorable, the 541S Jensen is a two-door grand tourer that was completely hand built in an era when mass production was well under way. Its design is quite similar to Aston Martins, Porches and Jaguars in appearance, but it has a few claims to fame that are all its own. The 541S was the very first British car to boast seatbelts as standard. It also came with a number of other safety features, as well. This model was outfitted with a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, Dunlop disc brakes, a Motorola and even a padded windscreen surround.

While safety features were paramount with the 541S, this Jensen boasts a number of other unique design perks. The car has front seat arm rests that are adjustable. It also has a Bevelift jack that is meant to be used through the floor so the car can be lifted without a motorist being exposed to the elements.

The 541S Jensen was produced by Jensen Motors Limited, between 1960 and 1963. This sports car was predated by the Jensen 541R and followed up with the CV8. The 541S line had a total of 127 cars made with two engine types, a 5358 cc V8 produced by Chrysler and a 3993 cc straight-6. It came as either a four-speed automatic or a four-speed manual with overdrive. It is said only 22 manual drive transmissions rolled off the factory floor before production on the model ceased.

Although the 541S offered many things other makes and models did not, it gained a reputation of being a car that was slow to accelerate. While this might not seem like a big deal, it was for buyers of sports cars. Unfortunately, the manual version of the car was not used for testing. Owners today say the four-speed manual with overdrive offers more than enough in the zip department.

Jensen Motors operated with a headquarters in West Bromwich, England, from 1934 to 1976 when it went bankrupt. The company was known for its sports cars and commercial vehicles. While the 541S was not a hit with buyers, the company did have its share of standout vehicles during its multi-decade run. In addition to its own models, Jensen also collaborated with Austin-Healey and Volvo on a few vehicles. It was partially responsible for the Austin A40 and the Volvo P1800.

Classic car enthusiasts with an eye for the rare and unusual might find the unusual 541S Jensen is well worth another look. While the automatic transmission version of this model lacks in the pep department, the manual twin does not. Regardless, both versions are considered an unusual find in these days of mass production.

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Dubbed one of the “Top Ten Gearhead Destinations in the United States” by MSNBC in 2007, this museum pays homage to the cars in the Cord, Auburn and Duesenberg lines. The museum has on display more than 120 cars ranging in production date from 1894 to 1999. Housed in the old Auburn Automobile Company national headquarters, the museum has had its doors open since 1974.

While many people are aware of the history of American auto giants out of Detroit, the story of these three lines is lesser known. Auburn was known for its affordable cars. Cord was famed for its innovations. Duesenberg provided the wheels many Hollywood stars tooled around in.

The history of the three lines all came together in Auburn, which is why the museum focuses keenly on the trio. The Auburn Automobile Company produced vehicles out of its Indiana headquarters from 1900 to 1936. During the course of the company’s history, it also picked up the Cord and Duesenberg lines. Auburn itself was responsible for such vehicles as the 1929 8-90 Speedster and the 1935 851. The Cord line was manufactured by Auburn from the late 1920s and into the 1930s. Deusenbrg was a standalone company that built luxury cars along the line of the Rolls Royce. This highly popular company was founded in 1913 and was bought by E.L. Cord in 1926, cementing its ties to Auburn.

Plans for the museum date back to 1969 when the nonprofit Auburn Automotive Heritage Inc. was formed. The group had its sights sets on honoring the Deusenberg, Cord and Auburn lines. Its initial statement purpose was to “discover, procure and preserve whatever may be related to the history of the automotive industry in the City of Auburn and County of DeKalb, Indiana.” By the 1974 opening, the group was able to procure 24 automobiles on loan along with a variety of memorabilia.

Since its opening, the group has greatly expanded its collection and even managed to get National Register of Historic Places recognition for the building. Visitors to the museum today will find it chockfull of exhibits dedicated to the three lines. It features three floors of gallery space, an archives, education center and more. In addition to its permanent collection, the museum plays host to special events and exhibits throughout the year.

Car lovers interested in the history of the American automobile outside of what happened in Detroit will find the Auburn Cord Duesenberg Museum provides an eye-opening experience. This museum is open seven days a week from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. It only closes on Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s. Tours are self-guided, but it is possible to arrange a docent-led visit.

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The Crown Vic as it is often called was originally produced in 1955 and 1956. Original Crown Vics are quite a boon to come across since production ceased so quickly on the models. Collectors, in fact, will find it is not uncommon for good condition 1955 Crown Victoria models to fetch $30,000 to $100,000 or more.

Initially a coupe with two doors and six seats, the classic was distinguished from the regular Victoria in the Ford line by a decorative stainless steel band that ran along the roofline. This feature essentially gave the roof a crowned appearance. The full-sized car also featured a sweeping design with rounded lights and the perfect body embellishments to make a two-toned paint job look fantastic. This V8 beauty was a follow up to the Ford LTD in production. Just like the LTD, the Crown Victoria was and continues to be favored as a police car and fleet vehicle.

Although the original rear-wheel drive Crown Victoria models were appreciated by some, especially those building fleets, the model did not initially sell well. Sluggish sales, in fact, led Ford to shelve the model for a time. It did not reappear on the market until 1979. At this point, Ford introduced the LTD Crown Victoria. This four-door design was shorter and less bulky than the original version. The changes resulted in improved handling, ride and fuel economy. The LTD version came with two engine types, a 255 CID V8 and a 302 V8. Most models made between 1979 and 1980 were three speeds with an automatic transition. An AOD four-speed was an option that was made available.

The reintroduction of the Crown Victoria paid off for Ford with sales and production continued. In the 1980s, the LTD Crown Victoria was a hit with both law enforcement and civilians. Ford, in fact, began producing two versions by 1983. Models for the general public offered a fuel-injected V8. The police version boasted a 5.8 liter V8 with a Variable Venturi carburetor.

During the 1980s, a number of alterations were also made to the Crown Vic design. In 1983, for example, central fuel injection was introduced. By 1986, this had been replaced by a sequential fuel injection system that was electronic.

The success of the reintroduced Crown Victoria line has led to production of this design since the late 1970s. Although many changes have occurred through the years, the model continues to be one of top in the Ford line for luxury combined with speed and handling. The 1990s did see a break off of the police version of the car. The Crown Victoria Police Interceptor was officially introduced in 1999.

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What is it that drives classic car enthusiasts into this hobby and what are the rewards of doing so?

Motivations for individual collectors can actually cover a host of reasons. Some people get into the hobby to realize a childhood dream to own a particular make and model. Others are simply in love with the artistry and engineering of classic cars. They revel in owning and driving their own pieces of history. There are even others who find the financial rewards of owning and restoring a classic are incredibly appealing. While it is certainly true that not all restored classics are worth a small fortune, there are many that are.

Beyond the potential for financial rewards down the road, hobbyists that choose to restore a single classic car or even an entire fleet of them realize many other benefits from doing so. This is a hobby that is embraced by passionate fans the world over. While it does require an initial and even ongoing investment in time and money, classic car owners often realize these rewards:

A sense of satisfaction – There is nothing quite like taking an old automobile and carefully working it back to its former glory. Restoring a classic, which is generally defined as any car 25 years or older, is a challenging process that can produce an incredible sense of satisfaction when completed. For many hobbyists, this is a labor of love that pays off when the car is road ready and restored to its former glory.

A way to bring the family together – Many classic owners find the restoration process is something an entire family can get involved with. Even family members who are not mechanically inclined can get in on the act of hunting for parts, cleaning and caring for the vehicle.

A way to own a piece of history – Classic car owners are responsible for helping keep a piece of history alive and running. This alone can be a huge motivation for those who see automobiles as works of art to get in on the hobby.

A way to gain camaraderie – While not all collectors show their classics or even join clubs, many hobbyists do. Classic car clubs provide a social outlet for the entire family and they can also serve as an invaluable resource during the restoration process. Classic clubs also provide an opportunity for hobbyists to show off their work during shows and tours.

While owning a classic or even collecting a fleet of them is not necessarily a walk in the park during the restoration process, this hobby delivers many rewards. The elbow grease and financial investment can pay off with an incredible way to spend spare time that delivers challenges, satisfaction and even eventual financial rewards.

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If you want to keep your antique vehicle looking and smelling great, there are a number of tricks of the trade. The first rule is to always use the gentlest approach first. Gentle cleansers without abrasives, for example, are best to start with.

So, what do you need to keep a classic in tiptop condition? Here are the basic supplies that can help you get the job done right:

Vacuum – An automotive vacuum is your best friend when working on cleaning the interior of an antique car. Use it to clean mats, carpeting and dirt and crumbs stuck in the seats. Do this before proceeding to clean the vehicle.

Soft clothes and nonabrasive sponges – Use these to rub the dash, assist with cleaning the seats and removing built up gunk from the steering column and instrument panel.

Water – This is the original cleaning agent. Use it first to try and remove stains, spills and built up gunk. If water and cloth along will not do the trick, move on to other cleaning agents.

Leather cleaner – If the seats are made from leather and you are positive of this, use a high quality leather cleaner and softener to clean and protect the material. Be sure not to rub too hard. Do not give in and use abrasives to clean dirt out of cracks either.

Vinyl cleaner – A mild vinyl cleaner can be used in place of leather cleaner if the seats are made from this synthetic material.

Softener or polish – Keep in mind that vinyl and leather can dry out and crack. To prevent damage or stop it from getting worse, be sure to treat leather or vinyl seats and dashboards with a softening agent. Select one made for the specific interior in the classic you own.

Carpet/upholstery cleaner – Find the gentlest cleaner designed for automotive use and apply it sparingly to upholstery and carpeting. Test the cleaner in an inconspicuous spot, too. This will help you determine if any bleeding will occur.

Newspaper – When this combines with water or window cleaner getting the windshield cleaned will be a snap. Just spray the windshield and use the newsprint like you would paper towel. Newspaper removes worry about streaking and is gentle enough not to scratch glass surfaces.

Baking soda – If the interior of the car smells musty, open a few boxes of cheap baking soda and allow them to sit inside the vehicle for a few hours. Baking soda will pull out a lot of odors from the air and leave the vehicle smelling fresher in little time at all.

While harsh chemical cleaners are fine to use in the cars of today, antiques deserve a gentler touch. If it is time to clean your classic, remember less is often more on the interior.

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